| Welcome to Gundam Eclipse. We hope you enjoy your visit. You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are some features you can't use. If you join our community, you'll be able to access member-only sections, and use many member-only features such as customizing your profile, sending personal messages, and voting in polls. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. Join our community! If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features: |
| When/where to use model cement on 'snapfit' kits; When to use glue on a modern gunpla kit? | |
|---|---|
| Topic Started: May 19 2011, 02:26 PM (711 Views) | |
| KayOne73 | May 19 2011, 02:26 PM Post #1 |
|
Fan
|
My model building habits is partly a holdover from the old days when Gunpla kits were NOT snapfit and required extensive use of model cement to hold the parts together. The newer kits are cool in that fact you can secure many pieces by friction alone without the need for glue, but I never truly believe these kits can be made 100% without glue, especially if you do sanding, finishing/priming and want to 100% eliminate seam lines. Also I see 100% snap fit finished kits where the owner is constantly pressing loose parts back onto the kit to keep them from falling off. Now I usually build my kits without the intent of disassembling them in the future like some folks do, so any parts that aren't meant to be removable or ariculated I usually apply a light amount of modeling cement once I've confirmed and planned out the final build after detailing and painting. Again I dont' cement parts that are meant to be removable, especially on newer kits using inner frame technology so I can remove the armor plates for display. But I totally cement all the non moving parts on the inner frame and glue things like antennas, V fins, or other parts that may easily pop off. Where do you fellow forum builders stand when it comes to use of modelling cement in straight builds. Obviously with custom and scratch builds you'll be using some kind of bonding agent extensively, but that's what what I'm asking. Are there any solid, sensible rules or principles you can give to fellow gunpla builders on when it's appropriate to use cement in the snap fit kits? |
 |
 
|
| sunsanvil | May 19 2011, 02:54 PM Post #2 |
Senior Member
|
I lightly bore out almost all pin/sockets because I found that otherwise during final assembly things were often too tight and I ended up marring my finish because of the force required sometimes. Having said that, I glue pretty much everything which doesn't involve articulation. Mostly Mr.Cement Limonene for assembly parts, but definitely CA for seams which are to be eliminated. Edited by sunsanvil, May 19 2011, 02:55 PM.
|
| The Sun's Anvil | |
|
|
|
| Vifam7 | May 19 2011, 04:52 PM Post #3 |
Member
|
I use cement with snap-fit kits (like Gunpla) when - 1. there's a seamline I want to remove 2. there's a connection that tends to be weak or a bit fiddly (guns that won't stay in the hand, armor that comes off too easy, etc) 3. the pins are hindering a good clean fit (in this case I would cut the pins off and sand the area down flat) 4. I break a piece  5. I want to melt a bit of plastic and use the melted goo as salve |
|
|
|
| salamxaphic | Jan 24 2012, 08:54 AM Post #4 |
|
Newbie
|
i usually just use cement to remove all seamline at such a rifle or palm |
|
|
|
 GameraBaenre
|
Jan 27 2012, 08:38 PM Post #5 |
 
|
I don't repose my kits. They're static displays, so I usually glue most things. Especially if there's some huge load on it like a weapon or some scratch built piece. Yeah, glue is my best friend when building. |
|
My Blog: http://gamerabaenre.com Those Gundam Guys 1st Annual Southern California Gundam Model Competition | |
|
|
|
| CKai Cydek | Jan 28 2012, 07:29 AM Post #6 |
A cynic & a dreamer
|
KayOne73 & Vifam7, you've covered pretty much most of the situations one might require glue on a snap-fit kit. In my own experience, it's the same: 1 - Seamline removal. 2 - Keeping bits of kibble in place, such as v-fins, antennae, & flaps. 3 - Use of super glue (cyanoacrylate) as a fix for extremely loose joints. Normally, more topcoat or even nail polish will do in a pinch. 4 - Broken parts. 5 - Certain parts that might have to slide or flip open, I may just glue them in position or permanently open, depending on personal preference. I never glue joints into a permanently fixed pose, because posing my kits is part of why I like them so much. And I change their poses on display often. |
|
|
|
| 1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous) | |
| « Previous Topic · Tutorial and Questions · Next Topic » |
6:43 PM Feb 22